Climate Comparisons

Domaine Maume

(Gevrey Chambertin)

We had our appointment with Bertrand Maume at nine o'clock. Though it was rather early, we were happy to taste the wines of the Domain again (see our previous report 2000). This time we mainly tasted in the wide cellar mainly from the barrel. First we got a short first overview of the 2006. Both samples let us expect something good but still were in the state of malolactic fermentation. So a prediction was hardly possible. We could degustate the 2005 more intensely. This vintage is going to be bottled in the summer. What was filled into our degustation glasses one after the other really was a pleasure, which seemed to increase with every wine and became a really expressive profile through the climates of Gevrey-Chambertin.

The most famous wine by Maume is the Maziz-Chambertin, with a mighty, complex structure. The second one is the Grand Cru of the Domain, the Charmes-Chambertin - there are not even one thousand bottles per year. Compared to the first, it is perhaps not so full and opulent, but regarding the finesse it may beat the Mazis. Also the Domain's three Premier Crus are good, the Laveaux Saint Jacques is almost comparable to the Grand Crus.

A worthwhile example of the Village-Appellation is the Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud. It comes from a climate right at the end of the village, situated diagonally across the Mazis. Maume owns 60 ares of it. They are planted with old vines which produce a complex and Terroir-orientated wine. Of course it doesn't reach the complexity of its greater brothers, but it has its own character and independence which makes it very interesting. And it shouldn't be underestimated.

Due to our experience we know that the simple Burgogne tastes like a little Gevery-Chambertin and grows directly nearby the village. Unfortunately it is always sold out quickly.

Wood Samples:

Gevrey-Chambertin 2006
Still in the malo with lactic acidity. Apple and cherry.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2006
A bit darker. Blueberry and red fruit jelly.

Bourgogne 2005
Dark fruit, blueberry. Full Burgundy. Delightful!

Gevrey-Chambertin 2005
Spicy, nice, typical Gevery. Red fruit jelly and Terroir.

Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois 2005
Darker. Blueberry, blackberry and liquorice. Some caramel because of the wood.

Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud 2005
Full and dense. Artful, spicy, very good Terroir notes. Jam like fruit. Like the big brother of the Burgundy. Superb Gevery.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux 2005
Bright red fruit, especially cherry. Apple peel. Light vanilla tones. Very elegant with fine relish.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2005
An Assamblage from the 1er Cru-Lagen La Perrière and Cherbaudes.
Blackberry and cherry. Fine spices. Jam like tones. Caramel and toasting aromas from the barrel. Very fine.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Laveaux Saint Jacques 2005
More structure and stronger. Gevery-relish. Forest berries, blueberries. Very good 1er. Like the big brother of the Pallud.

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2005
It's the most closed one of the samples, because the two barrels are stored in a colder place in the cellar. Red currant, red fruit jelly and dark fruit. Very fine, highly complex, rare wine.

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2005
More powerful than the Charmes. Dark cherry, forest berry, Cassis and liquorice. Spices and Terroir notes. Concentrated and with wonderful structure. Gonna be great!

Bottle Samples:

Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud 2004
Elderberry. Apple-like, beautiful acidity. Terroir wine that of course still needs time.

In the evening we then drank a bottle which we had bought there:

Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud 2001
Cherry red, shining. In the nose somehow reduced, in the air typical Gevery spices (pepper, curry, sweet pepper/capsicum) appeared, cranberry juice, forest berries, soil and blueberry. In the mouth first reduced, some CO₂, strawberry, red apple peel, cooked fruit, spices, liquorice, soil. Still needs plenty of air and is at the beginning of its maturity now.

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